Sad Yellow, Ironing Your Jeans, 3 Big Macs and the Boots of the Autumn
A smorgasbord of style delights for this pre-fall instalment of your favourite menswear newsletter
Welcome, friends, to The Closet. I’ve tried to keep things relatively concise this week, but as ever it’s bloated out like Marlon Brando on a private beach, with more style tips and stuff to buy than is good for my time management or your bank balance. Happy shopping!
Seven Early Trends from Fashion Week SS/25
Over the past few weeks, I’ve been following the womenswear shows in London and Milan. And since this newsletter coincides perfectly with the latter city’s Fashion Week, I thought it would be the perfect time to share some key insights I’ve picked up from the smattering of menswear looks on display.
Let’s not call it a trend report. Think of it more as a mid-season style update.
1 | Everyone needs a good brown suit
Brown continues to dominate the runways, with slinky brown suits belted at the waist at Emporio Armani, a delicious cocoa number accompanied by a bunch of baby pink chiffon at Simone Rocha and a great slim take on a classic brown suit at Versace.
You know how I feel about brown - when it’s the right shade (leaning more towards red than green, with minimal black undertones), it can be incredibly flattering. Pair it with shades of pink, tan, or red, like the Bottega boots above, and the result is peak chic.
But tread carefully: paired with the wrong colours or fabrics, brown can quickly turn from timeless to dated and begin to look overly nostalgic (see Wes Anderson). Avoid sweater vests and corduroy until grandadcore eventually comes back into style (in about five minutes, if the speed of the current trend cycle is anything to go by)
2 | Sad yellow is the colour of the season
A muted shade of lemon yellow - think sunshine dipped in Gaviscon - is emerging as the defining colour of the Spring Summer ‘25 season. At Versace, it appeared in the form of crisp, tailored coats and pyjama jackets, while Emporio Armani draped it across voluminous suiting. The key to nailing this hue is restraint: it needs to be a glass-half-empty kind of yellow. Anything too cheerful - like bright yolk or full-on sunshine - just won’t do.
3 | I’m currently digging collarless denim
Bally’s creative director, Simone Bellotti, delivered a standout show in Milan, with his collarless denim jacket striking a perfect balance between Prada’s sleek futurism (see below, left) and Grace Wales Bonner’s effortless cool.
When it comes to pulling off the collarless denim look, take inspiration from Simone Marchetti, European Editorial Director for Vanity Fair, who wore a black denim version flawlessly to last year’s Prada show.
4 | Massive suits aren’t going anywhere
A moment, please, for Matthieu Blazy’s masterfully curated Spring Summer ‘25 Bottega Veneta show, which unfolded yesterday in Milan. Blazy’s creations aren’t just impeccably executed - they're also brimming with playfulness and fresh ideas. His viscose and wool suit trousers, for instance, were cut to drape effortlessly without drowiing, while an intrecciato leather-collared blouson was crafted with the precision of a couture gown.
From denim jeans - likely made from something far more luxurious than cotton - to plaid shirts reminiscent of E.T.’s Elliott, reimagined in crisp wool and tailored with the sharpness of a fine jacket, every piece was a statement. Yet, it was the roomy suits that truly stole the show. A blend of Working Girl and American Gigolo, they took the prevailing voluminous tailoring trend to new heights, affirming that oversized silhouettes will dominate for at least another season. After that? Well, Blazy will decide.
5 | I told you, it’s all about a three button!
I’ve been saying for a good while now that one and two-button suits are a thing of the past, and the menswear shows in Milan fully backed me up. Bally showcased a range of '90s-inspired three-button jackets, while Boss offered fluid, viscose versions that harked back to the brand’s glory days in the same decade. Ferragamo and Versace also unveiled their own takes on this classic silhouette.
As I mentioned in last week’s newsletter: "The magic of the three-button jacket lies in its shorter lapel, which elongates the torso and creates the illusion of a longer, sleeker silhouette. Though especially flattering on taller frames, it works wonders for various body types, delivering a refined, lean look."
6 | Blousy Field Jackets FTW
And for those not eager to jump on the current tailoring train, then opt for one of the season’s finest field jackets in voluminous gabardine, wool or heavyweight cotton from Bottega Veneta, Ferragamo or Burberry. And the good news is that if you’re craving a two piece, most come with matching cargo trousers, too.
7 | I’m also digging ironed denim
There’s an old adage - one I’ve repeated to myself many times, at least - that to iron your jeans is to iron away your personality. This season, however, the designers seem determined to prove me wrong, with fluid jeans, dripping in charisma, seen at Versace, Bottega Veneta, and Loro Piana.
The secret to achieving that perfect drape lies in choosing a lightweight fabric and giving them a good steam (I still can’t bring myself to iron jeans). A great place to start is with Levi’s lightweight women’s Ribcage or Baggy Dads .
2 | It’s Fast Approaching Big Mac Season
If, like me, you love a coat to wear more like a blanket or gazebo than something designed to actually fit the body, then you could do worse than invest in one of the season’s tastiest big macs.
1 | The Double Big Mac
Cut from wool and viscose in a super flattering shade of fondant, by Studio Nicholson, this crisp-edged-yet-insulating number is perfect worn with grey cashmere and denim. Throw on a pink check scarf for a spot of smart colour play, when the weather begins to cool.
2 | The Classic Big Mac
I’m always amazed by how affordable the clothes from The Frankie Shop are. Crafted with the precision of higher-end brands like Jil Sander or Studio Nicholson and made from fabrics that look and feel far more luxurious than their price tag suggests, this fluid coat - reminiscent of something Richard Gere might have worn in Primal Fear - is a perfect example, coming in at less than £200.
3 | The Big Mac Daddy
No one cuts an ultra-fluid navy blue trench coat better than Giorgio Armani - and this one just happens to be in the sale. Buy it before it starts raining everyday! Which we both know it will!
3 | A Spot of Important Sartorial Wisdom
Last week, I had the privilege of interviewing Simon Holloway, creative director of Dunhill, for my Fashion Talks series at 180 House on London’s The Strand.
In our conversation - soon to be available as a podcast - Simon offered a wealth of insights. He emphasised the crucial role of fabric in luxury fashion, explaining that if he’s doing his job right, he sees himself more as a fabric designer than a clothing designer. After all, if his garments don’t feel good against his clients’ skin, they simply won’t want to wear them.
He also shared a particularly powerful insight on the journey to discovering one’s personal style, which I felt was too valuable not to pass along.
“Try and understand the person that you are, and just be the very best version of that person that you can be. You know, whether you're somebody who's interested in glamour or somebody who's interested in minimalism, just live it and own it. And, you know, you kind of need to ooze whatever it is that you've decided you are or that you've inherently understood that you are. I think that that deep understanding of yourself is extremely valuable.”
4 | I’m calling it, these are the boots of the Autumn
I know, I know—these Loewe Chelsea boots have been around for a few seasons now. However, the shape took some time to grow on me, and now, a year after their release, I find myself completely obsessed.
What’s new about these boots this season is the excellent shade of brown. The tufted leather adds a casual note that pairs brilliantly with denim, while the sculpted shape of the upper gently hugs the foot - a piece of aesthetic excellence that might even inspire a spot of fetishism.
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