A return to proper shoes, the new menswear Mecca and my Halloween hell
Stream of consciousness style brain farts and shopping tips coming in hot
Hi team. An unusually short - yet no less rich and meaty - newsletter this weekend, as I’m in the process of having my laptop fixed and I’m writing this from my phone. #FUN.
On rediscovering the joy of proper shoes
For the past week, I’ve been wearing my new pair of Church’s apron-toed lace-up shoes in burnished brown leather pretty much every day. It’s the first time in ages I’ve genuinely enjoyed wearing proper shoes - the kind with a real sole, laces, and actual arch support - and I’m hooked.
The last time I experienced this kind of joy from a pair of cobbled shoes was back in the early 2010s. I had just started at Esquire and bought myself a pair of tan lace-up derbies from A.P.C. They were the color of Werther’s Originals, and I wore them relentlessly. Around the same time, I got my hands on a beautiful pair of patinaed postman shoes from Berluti, along with a chestnut set from Church’s.
Back then, Mad Men mania was at its peak, everyone was obsessed with three-piece suits, and dressing like a “man” (in the most basic sense of the word) was a thing. Thankfully, we’ve moved on a bit from that narrow definition of masculinity, as today, suits and smart shoes are just one facet of a wardrobe - items to play with, reinterpret, and subvert. They’re no longer part of a costume for proving your manliness, but elements of a broader whole which you can blend and bend as you like.
Indeed, back in the early 2010s, it seemed as if wearing lace-ups allowed me to become part of a tailored tribe where no one would bat an eyelid at a "silly gay boy" who happened to love fashion, so long as he wore my blokey shoes. Now, my chunky Church’s lace-ups seem to do the opposite. They make me feel clompy, bold, and sexy - like a shire horse at a go-go bar. So much so, that I’ve been wearing them with everything.
On Friday I teamed my shoes with some white jeans for lunch and black grain de poudre wide-leg trousers from Studio Nicholson for dinner. For a Prada supper on Thursday I wore my shoes with an oversized tweed blazer from that brand and some cream pants. I felt daring, devil may care, and free - about as far from a trussed up wannabe Madman as it was possible to get.
Moreover, there’s something physically transformative about a proper pair of shoes; they make you move differently, more purposefully. Walking down Oxford Street on Friday, the new(ish) Justice album pounding in my ears, I found myself stomping in time to the beat - a rhythm simply not achievable in a pair of clacky mules. Even my perpetually stopped posture seemed to improve.
My advice this autumn, then, is to invest in a great pair of proper shoes that feel grown up but also fun to wear. The kind of shoes that would look as good with a suit as they will with some knee socks and a leather kilt. Trust me, your wardrobe - and your arches - will thank you for it.
On learning to dress for a warm Fall
Maybe it’s global warming, or maybe it’s just the slightly-too-mild transition from Indian summer to autumn, but either way, it’s vexingly balmy right now. Which is frustrating if, like me, you’re itching to bring out the coats and rescue the heavy-duty knits from storage.
As such, right now my go-to uniform is a black crew-neck wool sweater from Uniqlo (for when it feels particularly warm) or a black cashmere crew neck from Begg & Co (for when it feels cooler), paired with high-waisted jeans and layered with a blazer or jacket.
The challenge is finding the right version of the latter garment, as lightweight blazers - even wool ones - don’t offer enough in the way of warmth, while my heavier wool bombers and tweed jackets are still too stifling.
The solution, I’ve found, is a collection of hybrid blazer-jackets that combine function with style. These feature closed fronts or ultra-high Vs (instead of the traditional deep, open lapels) and are crafted from mid-weight fabrics. They provide just the right amount of insulation without overheating. They’re also surprisingly hard to come by, so here are a few of my favorites along with ideal pairing pieces.
Oh, and don’t forget a scarf. A great scarf is essential.
1 | The chi-chi librarian nursing a chill
2 | The Talks-to-Grandmas-at-Parties
3 | The CFO with StockX Seller Level 4
On my current favourite shopping spot
I had lunch at Chiltern Firehouse last week. I went on to order the fillet steak - ace - but before I settled in at my table I went for a little mooch around the local menswear shops, which left me pleasantly surprised.
First, I poked my head into King & Tuckfield. I’ll admit, I’ve been somewhat dismissive of the brand since Stacey Wood founded it in 2016, considering the cuts and proportions too contrived and performative for my minimalist taste - but as I perused the rails of the airy Chiltern Street flagship on Friday I found myself falling for one piece after another.
There was a perfect liquid navy blue shirt with an exaggerated point collar, there was a pair of perfect crushed velvet tapestry trousers that flowed over my legs like water, and there was an excellent bouclé jacket that would make one resemble the most elegant sofa.
Wood’s clothes are cut for both men and women, so some of the shapes can be challenging for those devoid of feminine curves, but there was a wonderful tactility to many of the pieces which left me hungry for more.
Next, I popped into Sabah, a gem of a shop selling Moroccan-inspired babouche slippers in a range of jewel-toned leathers and ponyskins - some slip-on, some with backs. I fell instantly for a pair of leopard print loafers which would look great with the sage green suit I spotted at Casely Hayford, just across the road.
I’ve been a fan of Charlie Casely Hayford’s work since he crafted a bespoke suit for me back in 2012. Over the years, he and his late father built a distinctive aesthetic, blending sportswear and tailoring with a specifically understated flavour. Charlie’s Chiltern Street store is a testament to this vision, with beautifully draped double-breasted suits, shawl-collared blazers, and relaxed bombers that redefine masculine elegance. Conveniently, it’s right next to Sunspel, if you’re in the market for a superlative T-shirt or two.
After lunch, I visited my new favorite vintage haunt, Catwalk Nearly New on Blandford Street. The shop is batshit and chaotic, albeit brimming with hidden treasures. I unearthed a cashmere Canali camel coat, a silk Giorgio Armani jacket, a pristine Cerruti suit, and even a velvet coat from DSquared2 - an eclectic haul that would have cost me less than £1,000, had I not been desperately trying to swerve big purchases.
A quick trip to the charity shops on Marylebone High Street - well-stocked thanks to the neighborhood’s well-heeled residents - satisfied my craving for a post-prandial bargain.
On the joy of neckerchiefs
Last week I wrote a piece about the resurgence of neckerchiefs for the FT. I wouldn’t be so lazy as to repeat it here, but I’ll share the cliff notes:
Stefano Pilati thinks a neckerchief is "the non-binary accessory par excellence.” The best brands for buying neckerchiefs are, according to Mytheresa’s buying director Sophie Jordan, “Dunhill - which showcased the new neckerchief mood perfectly, whilst brands like Valentino embraced a more maximalist approach.” Whilst, in my opinion, the increased popularity of the neckerchief could hint at a return to flamboyant dressing, following a period of sartorial stagnation.
What I didn’t assert in my FT article, was the fact that neckerchiefs are actually great for the kind of non-committal weather we’re experiencing right now. Just about insulating enough when the mercury drops - and light enough that they won’t make you sweat when things are warmer - I also didn’t get to share my edit of the best, so here are six essential neckerchiefs you should buy (and wear) right now.
On my Halloween hell
A quick note on Halloween. Call me a trick, but the holiday - freshly pumped on imported American steroids - seems to have transformed from sweet event for kids, into little more than a celebration of static-inducing, highly flammable, garishly-hued fabrics that are destined for landfill after their six selfie-filled hours in the sun.
Want to save the planet and celebrate dead people who were lucky enough to miss out on climate change? Skip the throwaway costumes and dress like a grown-up instead. SORRY NOT SORRY FOR BEING A BORING BANSHEE.
Amelia Dimoldenberg dressed as Roz from Monsters Inc gets a pass.
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