How to buy (and wear) the perfect pair of pleated trousers
Now is the age of the single, double and - if you’re feeling brave - triple pleat trouser. Flattering on most frames and much more elegant than a flat fronted pair, here’s my guide to getting the look
It’s rare that you’ll spot a flat-fronted trouser - save for jeans and chinos - in a Brunello Cucinelli or Giorgio Armani store. The reason is simple, pleated trousers are eminently more elegant on the body than their pleat-free equivalents, a fact the conjoined twin kings of Italian tailoring know better than all.
Drapey, roomy, designed to sit above the waist and, in turn, create a sense of length in the leg, I always prefer to wear a trouser finished with a pleat than without - particularly if it comes from one of the aforementioned brands.
I’ve pulled together this guide at the request of one of my most engaged readers @Usmaansalam (hi Usmaan), and it features my selection of the best pleated pants to buy now, in ascending price order.
1 | Uniqlo
A great entry-point into the pleated trouser trend, these charcoal pants come finished with a single pleat and fluid fabrication. The pleat is quite shallow, so there’s no need to fear things getting too bloomy around the waist if you’re a rookie in the field.
Team with a pair of simple white plimsoll-style trainers and a roomy navy blazer for an easy weekend look. These trousers are made from a synthetic mix, which I don’t love, but so long as you promise to wear them more than once, it’s ok.
2 | Zara
Enter, a slightly more directional pleated trouser from the Spanish high street megalith. Good for a beach wedding, perhaps, worn with sandals and a matching jacket (a vest?!), they feature a nice wide drape in the leg, but again, you need to promise me that you’ll wear them more than once or I’ll never recommend Zara again.
3 | Olive
My wonderful colleague Andrew (hi, Andrew!) recently came into the office wearing a beautifully drapey pair of pleated brown trousers. Cut to finish just above the tongue of his (always Salomon) running shoes, I immediately assumed they were from Studio Nicholson when in fact, they came from Insta-present retail site Olive Clothing, and cost less than £100. I currently have three pairs on order (soz, AD)
4 | Arket
I love these pleated wool-mix trousers from Arket. They’re technically women’s and I’ve written about them before, but that doesn’t make them any less excellent on masculine frames than they absolutely are. Aim to wear cropped with loafers or sandals for a summer smart look.
5 | Checks Downtown
A great casual option in the pleated category, these roomy caramel trousers with ultra-deep single pleats will look great worn throughout summer and into winter. Team with a roomy, heavyweight tee in the former season and some folksy Our Legacy knitwear in the latter.
6 | Studio Nicholson
I couldn’t write an article about pleated trousers without including a pair from the undisputed British master of the style, Studio Nicholson.
I own these heavyweight-yet-crisp pleated trousers in the brand’s delicious “darkest navy” hue, and they look as great worn with the matching jacket ((a get up I wore to Buckingham Palace, no less) as they do with chunky knitwear for more casual looks.
7 | Loewe
Jonathan Anderson knows how to cut a pleated trouser. Those sold by the LVMH luxury brand he helms are often imbued with an extra roomy Thai fisherman vibe, and this set of leg cylinders present no exception.
8 | The Row
I’ve long lusted after these pleated slacks, with a drapey 1940s-inspired aesthetic, from New York brand The Row. They’re expensive, yes, but they’re also absolutely worth the cash. Team with a crisp white shirt and an equally floaty blazer (ideally from Anderson & Shepard but more likely from P Johnston).
9 | Bottega Veneta
I’m sorry. I know I keep including Bottega bloody Veneta in these lists, and I do so knowing how prohibitively expensive the brand’s clothes are - but I just can’t resist.
The amazingly tactile handle of these textured brown viscose and silk trousers make them an absolute dream to wear, a fact to which I can personally attest, given that I’ve tried them on in the brand’s Bond Street flagship at least three times.
10 | Giorgio Armani
No one cuts a pleated trouser with more Italianate elegance than the pope of easy breezy tailoring, Giorgio Armani. Finished in an ultra soft silk and cupro-mix, they wear like oil and are utterly timeless, thanks to the muted midnight blue shade and perfectly flattering shape. An investment for the legs, if there ever was one.
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