Be Upstanding for Stand Collar Jacket Season
Call it a Mandarin, call it a Nehru - whatever you call it, right now it's all about an erect collar jacket (or twelve)
It’s been a while, dear reader. I’ve missed your eyeballs and I sincerely hope you’ve missed me pestering your inbox.
Over the festive season, I spent some time reflecting on how The Closet can better serve you. Moving forward, expect a lineup of new features: interviews with stylish individuals, podcasts, and a few surprises. One thing that won’t be changing, though, is your Wednesday round-up. It’s here to stay.
I also spent much of the holiday period mulling over Nehru, Mandarin, and stand-collar jackets. Yes, the kind Jawaharlal Nehru famously wore, but also the variety favoured by a certain breed of very posh man. Picture former Condé Nast boss Nicholas Coleridge wearing one in a fetching shade of noble rot.
Giorgio Armani has long championed mandarin collar jackets and a host of designers have delivered fresh, modern interpretations for SS25. Personally, I think stand-collar jackets work best when they’re slightly cropped and a touch boxy. Anything overly tailored risks veering into “jolly hockey sticks” territory - or, alternatively, looking like Danny Dyer at a 90s wedding. In Chelmsford. (Which, depending on your vibe, might not be a bad thing).
Fabric matters, too. Opt for materials with enough structure to keep the collar upright, ensuring you can also wear the jacket year-round.
A standing ovation then, please, for twelve of the very best stand-collar jackets out there right now.
1 | The All-Rounder
I recently stumbled upon this double-faced wool jacket on a weekend trip to Massimo Dutti. My partner was hunting for work trousers, while I was counting the minutes until I could head to the Selfridges sale.
That plan was momentarily forgotten when I tried this jacket on. The cut is perfect: long in the arms, creating a trapeze silhouette in the body.
It’s versatile too. Pair it with jeans and a tonal sweater for a solid weekend look, or elevate it with high-waisted black trousers and Saman Amel boat shoes for the office.
2 | The Minimalist
I discovered Paris-based brand Rier a few months ago and I can’t stop thinking about it. Founded by Austrian designer Andreas Steiner, Rier takes inspiration from the traditional style of South Tyrol, infusing it with a modern, minimalist sensibility.
This felted wool stand-collar jacket is a standout piece. Expertly crafted by local tailors from the region, it exudes the kind of understated elegance you’d expect from The Row, both in its design and how beautifully it wears.
3 | The Mid-Layer
This knitted jacket from British brand Sunspel has become my go-to mid-layer since I bought one in November. It’s versatile: perfect layered under an oversized brown bomber with a crisp white tee or equally good worn beneath a coat and over a collarless shirt.
What makes this jacket special is its ability to channel the Nehru-inspired stand-collar aesthetic while being as soft and comfortable as a cardigan.
4 | The Dressy One
I’m a huge admirer of Oliver Spencer’s work at Jermyn Street gentleman’s outfitter Favourbrook. Spencer has a talent for reimagining classic - some might even say old-fashioned - pieces, like velvet jackets and tailored suits, with a fresh, contemporary sensibility that never sacrifices wearability.
This stand-collar velvet chore jacket is a perfect example. It’s an elegant nod to tradition, but with just enough of a twist to make it cool.
5 | The One to Wear to a Wedding
Trust Alessandro Michele to make the most desirable (ergo, stupidly expensive) stand collar jacket of the season. Crafted from a silk blend fabric, this Prussian blue jacket features functional front pockets with gold buttons that afford it a military air. Wear oversized with cut-off jeans and a white tee to bring the zhuzh down a peg or two.
6 | The Outdoors-In One
I’ve been obsessing over this unlined stand-collar jacket from Bottega Veneta for a while now, and it’s easy to see why. The extra-long sleeves - perfect for my ape-like arms - are a thoughtful detail, while the back vent ensures it’s as functional for outdoor wear, as the minimalist front makes it polished for indoors. Ridiculously chic.
7 | The Entry Level
Despite its tricky name, Sirplus excels at creating understated Nehru-collar jackets from deadstock fabrics. This cropped cotton chore jacket offers a good gateway into the world of stand collars - minimalist, versatile, and easy to wear.
8 | The Surprising One
I’m really into this textured wool-cotton-viscose shirt jacket from Zara. Sure, they’ve totally ripped off Bottega Veneta in the design, but somehow it looks easier to wear than the piece they’ve copied. And it’s in the sale!
9 | The Timeless One
Emporio Armani has a strong selection of Nehru jackets crafted from innovative fabrics this season, many of which are now discounted. Take this piece, made from a subtly textured viscose blend with a slightly fuzzy finish. Style it oversized with the matching trousers for a spring-to-summer alternative to a traditional suit.
10 | The Soft Boy
Stoffa can do no wrong in my eyes. This double-faced bomber-cum-blazer in dense charcoal merino wool will not be leaving my back until May. A thing of popped-collar beauty.
11 | The Extra One
Ah Brunello, only you can charge over £4k for a stand collar jacket and make it seem worth it. This clotted cream cashmere number is currently on sale at Mytheresa, and will instantly become the most high-maintenance garment in your wardrobe - just imagine the levels of moth prevention! Worth it? TOTALLY.
12 | The One for Summer
I’m a big fan of Loro Piana’s South Tyrollian inspired collection, which was dripping in nehru jackets styled with tracksuit style knitted trousers and chic little house slippers. This rust-hued linen Nehru jacket is the star of the show, and will look great with denim and a smart little navy cashmere sweater. And a neckerchief, perchance!
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